A big world waits over there on the other side of them thar hills — with sun, blue sky and warm air, not to mention fine wine.
The challenge, really, is choosing where in Eastern Washington to go wine touring: Yakima Valley, Columbia Valley, Wenatchee Valley or Walla Walla Valley — how to decide?
You could pick the pass you want to go through: Snoqualmie, Stevens, Chinook, or North Cascades.
The roads to travel
Snoqualmie Pass is most convenient to Seattle, and most direct to the Yakima Valley.
Snoqualmie is quick and easy, with a few dramatic views of Granite Mountain and Guye Peak as you pass over the summit and proceed along the edge of Lake Keechelus.
Stevens Pass, on Highway 2, is a little long and drawn-out, without any significant features beyond the dramatic Mount Index, which marks the beginning of the ascent.
But it does go to the Bavarian-style town of Leavenworth, where wineries include Kestrel Vintners, Pasek Cellars, Silver Lake Winery, Eagle Creek Winery, Berghof-Keller and Okanogan Estates, to name a few — the perfect place to try some riesling.
The fun, little city of Wenatchee offers samples of North Central area wines at its visitor information center in the historic downtown, which is packed with public art.
Chelan, too, at the foot of the long and deep Lake Chelan, is home to T'sillan Cellars, Lake Chelan Winery and the creatively named Hard Roe to Hoe and Nefarious wineries, among others.
The most impressive pass of all, North Cascades Highway 20 leads to the Lost River Winery in Mazama and a few other tasting rooms, until you get to Chelan.
The old western town of Winthrop looks more like a whiskey sort of place, and Twisp has a great farmers market on Saturdays. (Don't miss the Twisp Bakery, and have breakfast at the natural-foods market.)
South of Seattle, Chinook Pass is another way to the Yakima Valley, and it passes by Mount Rainier. Its thrill factor depends on the weather: Will the mountain peek out from behind the clouds or not?
Whichever pass you choose to cross, warm air, orchards and vineyards await.
Heading for the Hills
I spent a day in Rattlesnake Hills recently, which helped me realize the futility of imagining that one might try all the wines of Washington state, which ranks second only to California in U.S. wine production.
Our northerly latitude provides two hours more of sunshine than California's prime growing region, and the extra daylight allows grapes to ripen more fully, and the cool nights allow the fruit's natural acids to remain high, creating richly flavored and well-balanced wines, according to the Washington State Wine Commission.
In five hours on a recent 94-degree Saturday, my two friends and I managed to stop at seven wineries, and that was barely a third of all wineries and vineyards in the Rattlesnake Hills! We didn't even make it to Prosser, where another huge cluster of wineries gather in the hills above the Yakima River, before it joins the Columbia.
We took to the hills after a short stop in downtown Yakima, where Gilbert Cellars on Historic North Front Street wasn't open yet. Downtown Yakima was pretty quiet, but the locals said that was because of the boat races in Tri-Cities that weekend.
The first seven
Our first winery, Windy Point Winery, towers over the valley, on top of a windy point, across the driveway from the now-closed Sagelands. Its beautiful vantage point provided an overview of our day along the Yakima River.
Back down by the Yakima Valley Highway and up again to Masset Winery, it became clear that each winery and tasting room has its own unique style and character. Located in a classic old farmyard, Masset is a down-to-business tasting room in a barn, while Piety Flats Winery makes good use of an old-country mercantile along Highway 97, which is packed with souvenirs, preserves and a fridge full of wine picnic supplies and ice cream, too!
Also along the highway, Claar Cellars is a convenient, quick stop for those who don't have time to head into the hills.
In search for a place for our outdoor picnic, we followed a recommendation from a server at Piety Flats for Hyatt Vineyards. The vast yard of green grass, with picnic tables and gazebos, provides grand views at the large-scale production winery.
Views of ribbons grapevines over rolling hills are similar, but the buildings range from renovated, old barns to fancy, new barns like those at Dineen Vineyards.
Two Mountains Winery is one of few that serves in the same large, open space with the winemaking tanks and barrels.
With flags and a dragon holding a bottle of wine at its entrance, Paradisos del Sol is a family affair, where the tasting room is like the kitchen at home, and cantaloupes are for sale by the winemaker's 8-year-old son, who is raising money for college.
By 5 p.m., we realized we were not going to make it to all 30 wineries and tasting rooms in Rattlesnake Hills alone.
The Rattlesnake Hills area ends west of Sunnyside, where Highway 241 cuts through the rolling hills from the Columbia River, northeast of there.
Another few miles down the Yakima River, and you'll be challenged by another 30 wineries around the Prosser area, including Thurston Wolfe Winery, Hogue Cellars, Heaven's Cave Cellars, Snoqualmie Vineyards, Chinook Wines and many more.
Exploring the AVAs
Eastside wineries continue across the state, with distinct regions growing different types of grapes in American Viticulture Areas (AVA). The largest is the Columbia Valley AVA, extending north to Chelan, above Wenatchee and east to Spokane.
Yakima Valley is the state's first AVA, established in 1983, with 11,000 vineyards and 65 wineries.
Also along the Yakima River, southwest of Prosser, is Horse Heaven Hills, and Tri-Cities host the state's smallest AVA, Red Mountain, but nonetheless, there are still 710 vineyards and nearly 15 wineries.
Finally, to the far east, is the Walla Walla Valley AVA.
My next wine tour will be there. Because it's flatter that the other regions, it has potential for the best bicycle tour.
I don't claim to be a connoisseur — I can't identify a wine by sip — but I do enjoy tasting the results of different grapes and the creative blends of winemakers, comparing a vintner's recipe from year to year.
My wine preferences range with the fashion and the time of year. When merlot was popular, I explored merlot. Then there was the oak-soaked chardonnay era. When that movie turned the public onto pinot noir, I went with the flow.
This summer excursion in the Rattlesnake Hills reinforced my theory: On a hot, summer day, there's nothing better than a nice, crisp pinot gris. Mmmmmmmmm.
How to go:
For an overview of wine touring in Yakima Valley and the rest of the state, go first to the Washington Wine Commission (www.washingtonwine.org) or call (206) 667-9463.
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