FOOD MATTERS | ‘Frat boys’ in Madrona; Les garcons in Madison Valley

Let’s start with the recently opened Madrona Arms (1138 34th Ave.), which is bringing a new level of energy into the neighborhood. Some of that comes from the imported culture of that uniquely British institution, the local, with its attendant décor of tartans and heraldry, a menu (set in Celtic Garamond) of pub grub like bangers and mash and a long list of domestic and imported beers on tap. So far, so good. 

After all, the pub’s new owner is Irish-born, a longtime Madrona resident named Peter Johnson, who owns similar taverns in Madison Park (McGilvra), Capitol Hill (Chieftain) and the University District (Finn McCool’s). 

More questionable is the nod to “lad” culture. At worst, it’s the hard-drinking, loutish, sexist, misogynist behavior that all-too-often poisons large British gatherings like soccer and rugby matches — though, at its least offensive, it is just an unsophisticated boys’ club, joshing each other with fourth-grade bathroom humor. 

Trouble in Madrona arose with a couple of posters that seemed — to me, at least — to appeal to prepubescent, tee-hee tastes. “Low-cut blouses are looked down upon,” says one. Very funny, snicker-snicker. 

No, not funny, said Kelli Christensen, a Madrona resident who took offense and complained to the management. Both Kathryn Robinson at Seattle Met and Bethany Jean Clement at The Seattle Times pointed out, rightly, that men aren’t subjected to signs that objectify their bodies. 

Johnson immediately ordered the posters removed. “We’re in the hospitality business,” he told me. “We don’t want to offend anyone.” 

It’s a shame that this controversy has overshadowed the pub’s opening. I enjoyed the Reuben and wouldn’t have minded a plate of corned beef and cabbage. 

The Madrona Arms has been open for a couple of months (and now serves weekday lunch, as well as weekend brunch), there’s an updated website www.madronaarms.com with menu details and a Facebook page. 

By the way, the folks who own Bottlehouse (1416 34th Ave.), Henri and Soni Schock, are opening up a second location after all. They were, at one point, rumored to be taking over the Madrona Ale House but have now settled on a downtown spot at 720 Olive Way, which they’re calling Mr. West. Breakfast, lunch, cocktails.

Lovely madeleines

C’mon, folks, it’s not that difficult to look stuff up. Your cell phone can tell you that Madeline is the name of the book — a series of books, actually — by Ludwig Bemelmans, that begins, “In an old house in Paris / That was covered in vines / Lived 12 little girls / in two straight lines.” 

Madeline (“mad-line”) rhymes with lines. A madeleine, on the other hand, is a small French sponge cake, traditionally scallop-shaped, made famous by Marcel Proust’s novel, “Remembrance of Things Past.” 

The taste of the madeleine (pronounced “mad-lane”) triggers the writer’s memories of Sunday-morning tea with his grandmother. Picky, picky — barely worth getting worked up over something so insignificant, I know.

That said, Belle Epicurean (3109 E. Madison St.) offered a lovely madeleine, plump and soft, with a citrus bouquet. The beverage I chose wasn’t Proust’s tea but a very Parisian noisette, a shot of espresso topped with a dollop of foamed milk. 

The pseudo-Italian menu-writers at Starbucks, up the road, may call it a macchiato, but on the terrace at Ladurée or Le Fouquet on the Champs-Elysées, it’s a noisette. Yes, these are the $20 cups of coffee you’ve been warned about, but remember, you’re not paying for the coffee — you’re renting the real estate.

FoodCircles

Say hello, won’t you, to Jonathan Kumar, 26 and recently settled at the intersection of Capitol Hill and Madison Valley. 

He’s originally from Michigan, where he earned a degree in informatics and economics; his mission in Seattle is to nibble away at two of urban America’s biggest problems: feeding the hungry and housing the homeless. 

With encouragement from investors in Ann Arbor, he developed an app, FoodCircles, that lets generous diners make charitable contributions that translate directly into meals for the hungry. 

Unfortunately, it hasn’t been a particularly easy sell, though not for want of trying. Three restaurants so far: Sport and Branzino in Belltown, and La Bodega downtown. Better success with the nonprofit beneficiaries, notably the Union Gospel Mission. 

The other half of Kumar’s mission is to provide services like laundry, groceries, clothing and transportation to the homeless and forlorn folk who ask for spare change on street corners. Donors who sign up receive a “beacon” (a fob the size of a quarter), which they can activate to transfer funds (a dollar or more) to needy individuals. (More is available online at vimeo.com; search for GiveSafe.)

For Kumar, his charitable impulses come partly from childhood: His parents, immigrants from India, were briefly on food stamps while his father completed his college degree. Today, his objective has matured: “to help people help others.”

RONALD HOLDEN is a restaurant writer and consultant who blogs at Cornichon.org and Crosscut.com. To comment on this column, write to MPTimes@nwlink.com.